Summers were hitting hard on the northern India, and we were feeling frustrated by the recession talk. We all decided to get out of this human civilization and contant chitter chatter about the falling economy and the lack of monsoon adding to it.
So with help from our friends in Road Survivors, we decided to go to the lahaul valley in the upper Himachal region. The valley has very little signs of the modern civilization. The road are still non existent and all you could find is a rocky trail created every year by the truck carrying the much required supplies for the locals.
The plan began with and 8 day trail but was reduced to 6 days by the time we hit the road. The first day was very much uneventful as we roared our way thought he plains of punjab and soared up towards our first day halt at Manali. On the way we went through the a magnificent tunnel, just near Pandoh, the tunnel was a marvel of modern engineering. About a kilometer long the tunnel was pitch dark and cold giving us an opportunity to get a preview of the temperatures we could expect over the next few days.
Taking the Manali Bypass at Kullu we reached manali by the sunset and found a cozy hotel to stay in.
Early morning we hit the road at 6 am just to make sure that we are able to avoid the traffic and enjoy the scenic beauty of Rohtang pass. We got our gas tanks filled up to the brim and carried another can of gas for just in case requirement as the next gas station was about 210 kms at kaza and we had no idea about the kind of average our bikes may give in hard circumstances. Although we had thought of reaching Kaza but we managed only Chhatru about 85 kms through an unforgiving terrain. Managing the twists and turns of the valley we spiraled our way through the traffic towards the Rohtang pass for the first time of our lives. The view was a bit disappointing as we had a totally different image in our minds. Although there was snow and a lot of it, but still we were not able to find the 30 ft. of snow we were told in the articles which we might find there. people were enjoying the jet skies and snow sledges. It was definitely cold we had our lunch (Bread and omlette) at the highest point possible in our journey. Couple of us also felt the lack of oxygen leading to headache. But the magnificent view made it possible to bear through that. After playing with the snow and clicking a few unforgettable shots we started further.
Down the valley we moved slowly through the u turns and steep slopes towards the bottom leading to the Y section where one road diverted to the Leh valley via Keylong and the other one disappeared into an off roading section to go towards Kaza (Spiti). As we had decided we chose the later and started our journey in search of the hidden valley. The view was amazing with big glaciers still melting and lined with snow capped mountains. The road was non existent and the cellphone signals had been lost. Humans were seldom seen and even animals were rare. Bumping and bouncing on our rides we passed through the nonexistent terrain. water bodies created by melting snow created another challenge on high passes over the mountains. As the bright sun showed it prowess, the water level increased and by the time we reached the banks of Chandra river, it had waves as high as 20 ft. The river was flowing with full fury and even the big rocks were surpassed by the gigantic waves.
Finally at 3 pm we reached Chandra Dhabha on the banks of the river and decided to call it a day. The road ahead had more water bodies and the way the snow was melting, they might have been filled with couple of feet of water. The Dhabha was a very basic one with beds consisting of mattress over the rocks. finally we had a chance to put our sleeping bags to test. We gathered around the table and talked about the day we had and the views we had seen. The moon was shining brightly and was somehow much bigger than what we see in Chandigarh.
Next morning as already decided we hit the road once again at 5 am. We began from Chhatru at 11000 ft. to make our way to the highest point of the journey at Kunjum Pass. The road made its way through the rocky valley providing excellent views only seen in bollywood movies. As we made our way through the valley we were greeted with what we had missed at Rohtang Pass, we were surrounded by at least 30 ft. of snow on both sides. The glacier had actually been cuts in order to make way through it. Chilled to the bone we spent some time clicking pics. before we moved. We stopped about 11 kms from the Kunzum pass to have breakfast and dry our feet which had been made wet by the water bodies. The way to Kunjum Pass was much better one than what we had encountered since Rohtang Pass. Although it was still unmattled but it was smooth and was mad up of sand rather than stones. We climbed over the 11 Km path throught he u turns and bends across the mountains to reach the Kunjum pass.
Situated at 15000 ft, it was a great piece of plan land more of a ground rather than a valley. It had the temple which we circled o our bikes and took a rest to view the scenic beauty. We met couple of other foreigners who were coming from Shimla side. They informed us that the road ahead was smooth. As it was already hitting noon, we had to decide against going to Chande Taal. We started moving downhill and crossing over to Spiti Valley. In contrast to Lahaul Valley whichi was mainly only rocks and sand, Spiti Valley presented greenery and habitation. For the first time since Manali, we crossed hordes of animals grazing grass and small villages. Many small lakes/ water bodies surrounded with green grass presented a beautiful view. finally we reached Losar from where the road began and we took another break, here my chain cover broke off as I accelarated a little too much in excitement and hit couple of loose rocks. We had lunch here and then moved towards kaza which was still 60 kms away. but since we were back on road it took us two hours to reach kaza and we onca gain called it a day.
The original plan was to move around Kaza and checkout the historic buddhist monasteries at Kibber and Tabo. But one among the group felt homesick and we decided to return to Chandigarh in the next two days. We planned to reach Rampur the next day and then follow it up to chandigarh on the following day. Getting up early at 5 am, two of use left on a fly to try and make it to shimla the same day. But it looks like the valley didn't want us to leave. At a speed of constant 50 kmph, we zoomed on the u turns and single lane roads without breaking for anything, by the time sun rose in the mountains we had covered 100 kms, and then suddenly my chain broke. With no village in sight, we towed my bike to the next village up and down the mountains. Finally we reached the next village only to find out that the closest mechanic is another 15 kms away. So I sat down while my buddy zoomed to fetch the mechanic.
After a long wait of three hours and the turtle zooming past me at the same speed of 10 kmph that he had been doing for the last two days, the mechanic arrived and repaired the chain. We were so frustrated by then that we forgot the beauty and the peace we were sitting in and started doing 70 now and reached Rampur by sunset. We were back in the horrid and humid temperature. We settled in the airconditioned rooms of hptdc hotels and had a nice warm bath after 3 days of cold and fascinating drive.
From here on it was just a matter of completing the drive and reaching the home. Back home all we could think of was that it is going to be Leh next year same time.
So good bye and good luck everyone.